Domaine Vrignaud Chablis 2022  £30.73

DOMAINE VRIGNAUD CHABLIS 

Guillaume Vrignaud joined the family domaine in 1999, when his father was a member of the co-op in Chablis, and convinced him to build a cellar and start making his own wines. Their success was such that they have grown from 12 hectares of vineyard to 27 hectares today. In 2009, Guillaume moved to organic viticulture but, like many growers in Chablis, abandoned it in the difficult 2016 growing season and is once again in the middle of the three-year conversion period.

His scrupulously clean cellar is comprised primarily of gleaming tanks, as 90% of his wines are fermented in stainless steel. In 2005, he started using solely native yeasts in his winemaking. "I think it gives me wines with more fruit and minerality," he asserts. But it is in the vineyard that Guillaume makes the difference. He has 12 separate parcels of Chablis spread over 14 hectares of 15 to 50-year-old vines on three different soil types: Kimmeridgian, white clay and Portlandian. "I think my best Chablis comes from a blend of all three soils," he says.

To express the character of the vineyards in the finished wines, Guillaume is very attentive to picking time. "I pick when the seeds in the grape are brown, but before any over-ripeness or botrytis has set in," he explains. "I like my Chablis to be precise rather than fat and full."

The grapes for the Vrignaud Chablis come from 14 hectares of vineyard on clay-limestone soils near the commune of Fontenay-Près-Chablis. The vines are situated on south-east facing slopes, between 170-240 metres above sea level. The vines are 30 years old on average and double-cane pruned, resulting in fruit of great intensity and complexity of flavour. The vineyards are all farmed organically and became officially certified organic in September 2019.

2022 was a vintage that brought smiles back to Chablis winemakers and yields were around double those of the challenging 2021 vintage. After a milder and drier than normal winter, some spring frosts hit in March, fortunately damage was limited as buds had not yet burst in the vineyards. An exceptionally warm spring boosted growth with full flowering completed by the end of May. There was very little rainfall during the summer and disease pressure was low throughout the growing season. Some well-timed showers in August gave the vines a necessary boost to complete the final stages of ripening. The harvest took place in early September and the grapes harvested were of excellent quality. The wines produced have excellent balance and expressive fruit character.

Each plot was vinified separately. Fermentation occurred using natural yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. The wine was then aged on its lees, adding texture and complexity to the finished wine.

This Chablis is pale yellow in colour with youthful reflections. The nose marries ripe citrus notes of lemon and lime with delicate blossom aromas. On the palate, it is well balanced with great intensity of flavour, a rich texture thanks to the lees ageing and a lingering finish.