Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019  £77.73

FONTODI VIGNA DEL SORBO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE

The Manetti family has owned Fontodi since 1969 but has been in Chianti for centuries. Though they have always made wine, their primary business is still the production of Chianti's finest terracotta at their factory in Ferrone. Giovanni Manetti has run the property since 1980 and ensures the wines are as meticulously made as the vineyards are immaculately tended. Their 90 hectares of vineyard, 90% of which are Sangiovese, are situated in the prime 'Conca d'Oro' (golden shell) of Panzano, and have been converted to organic viticulture. Giovanni is now following biodynamic principles to obtain the best quality fruit.

Soils here are galestro, a classic Tuscan shale, which has excellent drainage and encourages the vines to put down deep roots. The grapes for this wine are grown in the Vigna del Sorbo vineyard. The vines were planted in 1981, and the vineyard is situated at an altitude of 400 metres above sea level, facing south/south-west.

The unusual late frost in spring caused a reduction in potential quantities, but this proved favourable in the later stages of fruit development. In fact, because of the lower quantities, the vines suffered less stress from the summer lack of rain and high temperatures, which guaranteed full ripening of the grapes. The rain in the first week of September, light but adequate for the final pre-harvest period, also facilitated the conclusion of the ripening process.

Grapes were fermented separately in stainless steel tanks for 18 days. During fermentation and maceration the cap was punched down twice a day. After fermentation the wine was aged in Tronçais and Allier barriques, of which half was new oak, for 20 months and an extra 4 months in botte grande (large barrels) prior to bottling. It remained in bottle for at least six months before release.

Dark ruby red in colour, this wine opens with aromas of dark black fruits, blackberry and Victoria plum. The powerful structure defines the palate and is given complexity by the smoky, savoury fruit, robust tannins and fine acidity.

RobertParker.com: 96+ points

The Fontodi 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is simply gorgeous now and we should expect better things to come as the wine continues its bottle evolution. This organic, single-vineyard expression (with 29,000 bottles made) delivers impeccable balance and beautiful intensity throughout. The wine sports a developed fruit side that contrasts nicely against the spice and tobacco-like tones that come thanks to 18 months in French barrique and six months in botte. The 2018 vintage can sometimes be hard to read. For example, this wine offers sharp acidity but it also sees a 15% alcohol content plus lots of enduring sweetness and ripeness. The tannins are especially supple and sweet. I can't wait to try this wine in 10 or 15 years from now.

Monica Larner