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David Moret Auxey-Duresses 2020 £42.99
DAVID MORET AUXEY-DURESSES
David Moret makes top quality white Burgundy from his small cellar in Beaune. David studied winemaking at school but didn't have a family Domaine to work in when he graduated, so he began his career in wine by selling winery equipment to local vignerons. His personable character ensured success in this endeavour, as well as friendships with some of the top growers of the Côte de Beaune. He purchased his first barrels in the late 1990s, and since then, has continued to buy small parcels of grapes from top growers to vinify in his cellar, always from the same plots of vines.
The vineyards of Auxey-Duresses, an appellation since 1937, are located just south of Saint Romain, planted on the hills which lead to Meursault. As such, the whites from Auxey-Duresses present excellent value. The Chardonnay for David’s Auxey-Duresses is sourced from south-facing vineyards with an average age of 30 years, which are planted on limestone soils, giving wines with excellent concentration.
2019 is heralded as one of the best vintages in Burgundy in recent years, however it was not without its challenges. Despite a mild winter and warm start to the year, temperatures dropped in April meaning that producers in the lower parts of the Côte de Beaune were hit with a bout of frost on 5th April, which impacted volumes. Equally, June was unusually cold & wet, which resulted in millerandage and further decreased yields. Warm and dry conditions returned in July. The high temperatures meant the vines were under hydric stress, which concentrated the juice in the fruit. Harvest took place in mid-September. The 2019 whites have excellent freshness and are beautifully concentrated.
Grapes were brought straight to the winery and were pressed immediately, in order to preserve delicate fruit flavours. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation took place in French oak barrels. The wine was aged for just over 12 months in 20% new French oak before bottling.
On the nose, this Auxey-Duresses has aromas of pink grapefruit and apricots, sweet pastry and hints of struck match. On the palate, the wine has a lovely rich texture, which is well balanced with racy acidity and citrus fruit flavours, which linger on the finish.