Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes 2020
This famous Domaine has been run by Caroline Lestimé, JeanNoël’s daughter, since 1989. Its 12.5 hectares of outstanding vineyards have been certified organic since 2014, and are now run biodynamically, though are not yet certified as such. Most of the estate’s vineyards are in the heart of Chassagne, with one vineyard in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, which looks down on St. Aubin and was planted in 2015. The wines are, in the best sense of the phrase, ‘low intervention wines, with each expressing the character of its site.
The ‘Les Chaumes’ vineyard borders Premier Cru ‘La Boudriotte’ at an altitude of 300 metres above sea level, lending excellent freshness to the wines. The vines are east-facing, Guyot-trained and planted on stony calcareous clay soil. The vines are certified organic and are enriched with biodynamic composts at the end of every winter.
The grapes were hand-sorted in the winery before being whole bunch pressed. Fermentation took place using native yeasts in oak barrels, of which 30% were new. The wine was aged for 15 months in oak before bottling.
On tasting, as on location, the ‘Les Chaumes’ is very much of a ‘superior’ village. It boasts aromas of white flowers, stone fruits and toasted almonds. On the palate, the concentration of flavour gives the wine a rich texture. A Puligny-like acid on the finish cuts through the intense fruit flavours giving the wine a lovely balance.