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Familia Zuccardi Aluvional Vista Flores Valle de Uco 2012 £69.95
FAMILIA ZUCCARDI ALUVIONAL VISTA FLORES VALLE DE UCO
Sebastian Zuccardi, the grandson of the founder, is now in charge at this trailblazing family winery. Rapidly establishing himself as one of the great winemaking talents of Argentina, he is determined to alter the world's perception of Malbec and evolve our understanding of what Mendoza has to offer. He talks of "not seeking perfect wines, but those that express the place, the region". His vision is not altitude, it is terroir: terroir honed and shaped by the icy Andes flood waters whose power brought the rocks and boulders that now form the sub-soils of many of the very best vineyards. Frequently pictured waist-deep in a muddy hole in one of these vineyards, these rocks not only form part of the vineyard but in their new winery, they form the building and the fermentation vessels. At the forefront of the movement towards greater fruit purity, Sebastian's wines are the most convincing argument for the use of concrete fermentation and ageing vessels and, as a result, for the movement towards a greater understanding of the potential of Malbec and Argentina in general. Though we may be a little biased, it is fair to say that Sebastian is amongst the most influential young winemakers on the planet.
At Zuccardi it is clearly understood that quality starts in the vineyards. Through extensive research and the use of technology such as electromagnetic mapping of soil, they are reaching ever greater understandings of the "terroir" and how to match soils with the most appropriate grape variety. With extensive vineyard holdings in Maipu, Santa Rosa and increasingly at high altitude sites in the Uco Valley, the quality at Zuccardi is ever-improving as these wines find their place. Every aspect of viticulture at Zuccardi, from irrigation techniques, trellising and training, pruning and harvesting is constantly reviewed and improved upon whilst always remains true to their principles of sustainability.
Gravity-fed concrete vats are used for fermentation with selected indigenous yeast. 20 to 25 days of maceration on the skins with ageing done in barrels and concrete vats.
Red with deep violet hues. Expresses a complex red and black fruit character with notes of strawberry, cherry, plum which is further complemented by fresh herbal and floral notes like rose and violet. On the palate, it has a sweeping entrance; juicy, with lively acidity in perfect balance with the tannins. Excellent structure and a very long finish. A big wine that deserves flavoursome food. Game, Steak, Mature Cheeses.
The Wine Advocate
"The 2012 Aluvional Vista Flores is produced with Malbec grapes from Vista Flores, in the Tunuyan department of the Uco Valley, from a vineyard at 1,100 meters altitude. It opens with opulent aromas of wild herbs and violets, very showy and elegant, and has a medium-bodied palate with extremely polished, glossy tannins and sweet texture. It is fluid and very drinkable. Drink now-2018. I first met with Sebastian Zuccardi, the third generation in the wine business, in Madrid and tasted through a portfolio of impressive wines. Sebastian is now in charge of winemaking of the top range of wines of Familia Zuccardi. They produce around 20 million litres of wine per year, and the big volume comes from Santa Julia (18 million) mostly from East Mendoza, and Zuccardi has two million litres where the focus is the Uco Valley. He’s young and energetic, really passionate about wine. He has discovered cement vats and he’s building a new winery in Altamira with no inox. He’s also moving away from 225-litre barriques and going to 2,500-liter foudres and 500-litre barrels, and some wines are matured in cement. Tasting through different wines from Uco, all of them fermented in cement without any ageing in oak, was a true revelation of the terroirs of the valley. Most impressive was the Cuvee he calls “super-calcareous” from selected plants in a specific vineyard they have identified as having more chalk. They do this with a kind of electronic carpet that is dragged across the vineyards and paints a computer picture of the conductivity of the soil. I tasted this blind next to a wine from the same vineyards, but from individual vines where clay content is higher. The wines were as different as night and day. Sebastian’s face lit up when I told him what I saw in the wines (which to me was crystal clear) since it was exactly what he thought of them, and what I think he was hoping I’d say. I was impressed by the study of soils and the work he’s doing with the help of the Chilean terroir expert Pedro Parra and Italian consultant Alberto Antonini. Additionally, I had the chance to visit the new winery they are building in Altamira and meet his father Jose “Pepe” Zuccardi, one of the legendary names in Mendoza wine. There I tasted through more of their labels. The new winery is most impressive where all vats are made of cement, in different shapes and sizes. It is a winery built to the measure of their vineyards. They are going one step further, really taken by how terroir shines through the wines when they are fermented in cement without any lining (no epoxy). As Sebastian said, “We are a family company founded in 1963 by my grandfather Alberto Zuccardi. He began planting vines in Maipu (province of Mendoza). He was a civil engineer who was developing an irrigation system built with cement. He bought a vineyard to show the system to potential customers and of course, he got hooked on wine. Fifty years late his grandson is going back to the future, vinifying all his wines in cement, the same material that his grandfather used for his invention – closing the circle.” Most of the wines are from the Uco Valley, where they have five different vineyards. We also visited some of them and saw the different soil compositions. They are doing amazing research and development work, investigating soils and vinification, understanding their vineyards, and generating their compost to bring their soils alive. Sebastian is making some of the country’s most exciting wines by placing a renewed emphasis on terroir and balance. Zuccardi is one fundamental name in the future of Argentine wine. The Serie A wines try to show the three main varietals grown in the zone that is better suited for each, Torrontes from Cafayate (Salta), Bonarda from Santa Rosa in the east of Mendoza and Malbec from the Uco Valley. The Aluvional wines are always produced with Malbec from the Uco Valley vinified in egg-shaped concrete vats without epoxy lining; I also had the chance to taste different 2013s from La Consulta, Vista Flores (extremely floral), Altamira (calcareous) and Gualtallary (calcareous). I was also served blind two different wines from Altamira, from the same vineyards but with different soils and the difference in aroma and texture was amazing. Again, 2013 is a vintage to look out for in the future and I look forward to tasting the bottled wines from this promising vintage."
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