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Greywacke Chardonnay Marlborough 2014 £29.95
GREYWACKE MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY
Greywacke was created in 2009 by Kevin Judd, chief winemaker at Cloudy Bay from its inception for 25 years and instrumental in the international recognition which Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc enjoys now. The name 'Greywacke' was adopted by Kevin for his first Marlborough vineyard located in Rapaura in recognition of the high prevalence of rounded greywacke river stones in the soils of the vineyard, a sedimentary rock which is widely found in Marlborough. Kevin Judd is also New Zealand's finest wine photographer and has recently published a book 'The Landscape of New Zealand Wine'.
The grapes for this wine are primarily sourced from the low-yielding Mendoza clone, known for its concentration of flavour and crisp acidity; the balance were from Clone 95. The majority of the fruit was sourced from the lower reaches of the Brancott Valley and Fairhall, grown in gravelly, clay-loam soils, the remainder coming from Renwick and Rapaura, grown in young alluvial soils containing high proportions of New Zealand’s ubiquitous greywacke river stones. The majority of the vineyards were trained using a two-cane VSP (Vertical Shoot Positioning) trellis with the balance on the divided Scott Henry canopy management system.
A warm, dry spring and near perfect conditions during flowering resulted in one of the earliest and potentially largest harvests on record. Further warm conditions throughout the growing season and strict crop-thinning regimes pre-veraison ensured that the eventual moderate crops ripened evenly, well ahead of an average season. In mid-March, Fijian cyclone Lusi made a brief appearance bringing an inch of rain and a stiff breeze but harvest resumed a couple of days later. The following two weeks reverted to classic Marlborough summer with high sunshine hours, relatively warm temperatures and zero rainfall.
The vineyards were hand-picked separately at high ripeness levels and whole bunch pressed using very low maceration press cycles. The resulting juice was lightly settled and racked to French oak barriques (20% new). The juice was allowed to undergo spontaneous indigenous yeast fermentation, the final phase continuing for many months. The wine received occasional lees stirring and underwent a complete malo-lactic fermentation. It was transferred out of oak after 18 months and bottled in November 2015.
An alluring combination of cumquats, peaches and yellow grapefruit melds with the more savoury aromas of almond nougat, vanilla beans and marzipan – an opulent concoction that is infused with a charry smokiness. The savouriness carries through onto a wonderfully dry, but rich and powerful palate that has great texture and concentration.
91 points - RobertParker.com - Lisa Perotti Brown
94 points - The Real Review - Bob Campbell MW
Moderately intense chardonnay with struck flint, grapefruit, marmalade, guava, hazelnut and nutty oak flavours. Fruit and alcohol sweetness is balanced by tangy acidity that helps drive a lengthy finish.
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