Mitolo G.A.M. McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020  £38.02

Mitolo G.A.M. McLaren Vale Shiraz​ 

McLaren Vale-based Mitolo is a family-owned winery established in 1999 by Frank Mitolo, whose Italian roots inspired his early interest in, and enthusiasm for, good food and great wine. Winemaker Ben Glaetzer became a partner in the business in 2001. The fusion of Frank’s knowledge of the land and business acumen with Ben’s winemaking talent has resulted in Mitolo becoming one of Australia’s most awarded wineries. In early 2022, Mitolo welcomed Luke Mallaby as Head Winemaker. Having learned his craft at renowned Yarra Valley wineries Yering Station and Oakridge, Luke spent eight years honing his skills with Treasury Wine Estates. Ben’s new role as consultant enables him to support Frank, Luke and the team and help ensure the continued success of the highly acclaimed Mitolo wines.

Overlooking the coast, the Lopresti vineyards in McLaren Vale from where the majority of Mitolo’s fruit is sourced, have heavy grey loam over sandstone soil with black cracking Biscay clay. The proximity to the ocean ensures cool afternoon breezes that help retain good acidity levels and aid in the development of complex flavours in the grapes.

The G.A.M. Shiraz comes from the Lopresti vineyard, and more specifically the Chinese Block, which is located at the southern end of McLaren Vale east of the coastal town of Port Willunga. The soil here is heavy grey loam mixed with black Biscay clay and sits above ancient Gnaltinga formation clay. This combination provides ideal conditions for growing fruit of intensity and balance. The climate here is maritime, with dry, warm, sunny days in the growing season and a fresh sea breeze that cools the air overnight.

Upon arrival at the winery, the grapes were destemmed and crushed to a mix of eight and two tonne open fermenters, with twice daily pump overs throughout fermentation. Temperatures were kept cool, between 20 and 24 degrees celcius in an attempt to extract the tannin, colour and flavour very softly. Once pressed, the wine was transferred to 15% new French oak, 5% new American oak and 80% seasoned French and American oak, undergoing natural malolactic fermentation and barrel maturation for 16 months. The final wine was bottled without fining and receiving only light filtration.

The 2020 vintage was a drier than average growing season for the third year in a row with reduced vine vigour and high winds in November affecting fruit set. High temperatures in December placed stress on the vines but, thankfully, rain arrived in January and provided some much needed relief. This set up a long and steady ripening season. February saw significant rain which caused some concern, however disease risk was kept at bay through careful vineyard management and no high uptake or splitting occurred. The trend for cooler weather continued into March for the bulk of the harvest, resulting in grapes that remained balanced with good natural acidity.

Deep ruby in colour, this wine opens with intense notes of blackberry, black cherry and blood plum with nuances of chocolate and roasted dry spices. The palate is rich and concentrated with vibrant fruit notes and complex savoury notes, adding layers to the wine. The firm yet supportive tannins marry perfectly, giving ample structure and length, delivering a smooth, dry textured finish.

Halliday Rating - 94 Points Fruit from two blocks of the estate vineyard; matured for 16 months in new and seasoned oak before blending and four additional months on old oak (the final blend was 15% new French and 5% new American). There’s signature concentrated and brooding notes, with the fruit intensity that clay soils often yield, though it’s all handled rather nimbly, with fruit picked for both presence and vigour, oak present, but it’s a carefully tailored fit. Blackberry, red plum, dried blueberry and a tarry minerality, dark cocoa and anise, the palate supple but savoury, drawing long. 

Marcus Ellis