Pegasus Bay Waipara Chardonnay 2019  £30.83

Pegasus Bay Chardonnay

The Donaldson Family have been seriously involved in viticulture and winemaking for over 40 years. Founder Ivan Donaldson planted the first Canterbury vineyard in 1976 and went on to establish Pegasus Bay in 1986 with his wife Christine. It is a true family business, with all four of their sons and two spouses involved, managing various aspects.

The vineyard is located within the Waipara Valley of North Canterbury, on free-draining, north-facing terraces carved out of New Zealand’s Southern Alps by an ice-age glacier. It benefits from being in the lee of the Teviotdale Range, giving maximum protection from the Pacific’s easterly breezes and thus creating a unique microclimate. The vines are over 30 years old, with a large proportion planted on their roots. The soil is free draining and of low fertility, resulting in naturally reduced vine vigour. This produces low yields of optimally ripened, high quality, flavourful grapes, which fully express the qualities of this unique terroir. The vineyard has warm days, but the nights are amongst the coolest in the Waipara Valley, drawing out the ripening period of the grapes, while still retaining good natural acidity.

Unsettled weather over flowering resulted in a lighter than average set, meaning that no further fruit thinning was necessary. A classic North Canterbury summer then enabled this smaller crop to mature beautifully. Accelerated ripening allowed harvest to take place slightly earlier than usual, and favourable autumn weather ensured the grapes were picked in perfect condition.

Traditional Burgundian winemaking methods are used. The fruit was hand-picked in stages during late March and early April, and then gently trodden underfoot to increase complexity and phenolic structure. The free-run, non-clarified juice was then put into large French oak barrels (puncheons), 70% of which were old to limit pickup of oak flavour. In these it underwent primary fermentation by the grapes indigenous yeasts. The wine was then matured in the puncheons on its natural deposits of yeast lees (sur lie). In the summer after harvest, it started to go through spontaneous secondary (malolactic) fermentation. It was regularly tasted during this time and the fermentation was stopped when the ideal balance was obtained. It had approximately 12 months maturation prior to bottling.

On release it has an appealing lemon hue. The bouquet is sumptuous and compelling, both fruit driven and intriguingly savoury. Aromas of ripe peach, nectarine and green apple are interlaced with toasty notes of roast chestnut, smoky bacon, flint, sandalwood, and a whisp of struck match. The palate is a deluxe showcase of multi-layered richness and precision. Dense and textured, yet fresh and vivid. A gloriously expansive mouthfeel is perfectly balanced by a whip of rousing acidity that shimmies across the midpalate, setting up for an explosive and gratifying finish.

95 Points The Real Review

From ungrafted 30+ year-old vines and a very favourable vintage. Smooth-textured chardonnay with white peach, lemon curd, grapefruit and spicy oak flavours. Appealing purity and power. A sophisticated and complex wine.

Bob Campbell MW