Wiese & Krohn Colheita 1982 Port  £54.95

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Wiese & Krohn was founded in 1865 by two Norwegians - Theodor Wiese and Dankert Krohn - shipping initially to Scandinavia and Germany. In the century and a half since its foundation, Krohn has built up an outstanding reputation. Long renowned for the quality of their sublime Colheitas (single vintage tawnies), they produce a remarkably complete range for a small house, and each wine excels in its category. Much of the secret lies in the high quality of their vineyards - the magical combination of terroir, locality, aspect, incline and low-yielding vines. Their Quinta do Retiro Novo estate in Sarzedinho, in the Rio Torto valley (where vinification takes place), is all A grade vineyard. Indeed Krohn only work with grapes from A-graded vineyards across all of their ports, and their top wines are still trodden by foot. Since 2013 Krohn has been part of the Fladgate Partnership - alongside Taylor's, Fonseca and Croft.

Traditional grape varieties are sourced from the Quinta do Retiro estate and neighbouring growers in the Rio Torto Valley. Here old vines are planted in schistous soils. Fermentation is in open granite tanks called 'lagares', where the grapes are trodden by foot. Fermentation is interrupted by the addition of grape spirit to preserve a certain degree of natural sweetness. All ageing is done in 547 litre oak barrels (the traditional 'pipe') and larger casks. The Port has spent over 30 years maturing in wood, before being bottled, unfiltered.

Deep gold to burnt orange in colour, with a complex bouquet of crème brulee, nougat and marzipan. The palate is reminiscent of rich marmalade, prunes, crystallised ginger, nuts and lemon zest. Beautifully developed with balanced acidity. Match with creamy cheeses such as Brie, Camembert, or the Portuguese Serra. As an alternative drink with crème brulé!


 Mark Squires

 The Wine Advocate

"The 1982 Colheita Tawny Port was bottled with 155 grams per liter of residual sugar and a long cork in 2016. It comes in at 21.6% alcohol. Moderate in depth, this is long on charm. It has a very bright, fresh start, seeming elegant and balanced, but there is a bit of alcohol showing up front. The touch of molasses on the finish, the sugar and the generally lively demeanor make that a modest issue rather than a critical one. This is very good and very pleasing, but probably a step short of true distinction for what amounts to a 30+-year-old tawny. The price point is reasonable, though, for its age."

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