d'Arenberg The Derelict Vineyard Grenache 2019  £22.17

d'Arenberg The Derelict Vineyard Grenache

Since 1912 the Osborn family have grown grapes and made wine in the picturesque surrounds of McLaren Vale. Today fourth generation family member Chester Osborn is at the winemaking helm, making distinctive wines using traditional methods in the winery and the vineyard.

At a time when Grenache was considered unfashionable, Chester acquired much old bush vine, overgrown and abandoned vineyards. These vineyards still have a slightly dishevelled appearance, but they are back producing very low yields of exceptional fruit.

Great winter rains set the vines up well last year, followed by a very dry spring and summer with no heatwaves. The initial fruit development was fantastic, the first white grapes to be picked showed incredible levels of natural acidity coupled with good fruit ripeness, unlike anything we've seen for a long time. Just prior to picking the first red grapes there were three days of reasonably high temperatures, which accelerated sugar ripening and meant the winery was filled in record time. A lot of the red grapes from that period are particularly rich with intense tannin and dark fruit characters - a great vintage for reds and whites alike.

Small batches of grapes are gently crushed and then transferred to five tonnes headed down open fermenters. These batches remain separate until final blending. Foot treading is undertaken two-thirds of the way through fermentation. The wine is then basket pressed and transferred to a mixture of old French and American oak barriques to complete fermentation. The barrel ferments are aged on lees, there is no racking until final blending and no fining or filtration.

An absolute abundance of fruit on the nose, with all the classics, blueberry, plum, liquorice, spice and earth. The palate too is full of presence. Juicy and generous but with a seam of crunchy tannin and lively acid that add structure and fresh punch to the wine. All of these big rich fruits wrapped around a graphite almost ferrous like framework. Immediately drinkable but undoubtedly a Grenache built for time. If enjoyed young be sure to decant or at a minimum allow it to breath in the glass. Your patience will reward you.

88 Points Wine Companion

A rich grenache, pulling few surprises. Kirsch, bergamot, clove and a peppery core of tannin and acidity, given additional grunt by a whack of oak tannin. The finish is obtuse. This could use a more relaxed winemaking hand.

Ned Goodwin MW